Mythical chic: Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe menswear spells magic in Paris

PARIS — Golden feathers cascading down models’ concealed faces opened Loewe’s spring show at Paris Fashion Week to evoke the myths. It set the stage for a more subdued collection this season from Northern Irish designer Jonathan Anderson—but one which continued to blend fantasy, whimsical artistry with high fashion.

Here are some highlights of Saturday’s spring 2025 menswear shows:

Moments of poetry abounded, as usual. A stiff sleeveless pearl vest and another resembling armor, almost sculptural in its presence, shimmered like iridescent fish. Anderson’s talent for what he calls creating “collaged realness” was once again on display for spring, merging art content with high-end fashion.

Generous draping and ruching on pants and foulards showcased fine fashion design with curves swirling elegantly, all conceived with a light, minimalist touch. This was Anderson at his best, creating exaggerated, sculptural silhouettes that are now a hallmark of his Loewe tenure. The deceptive lightness and fluidity of the cottons, wools and leathers marked his ongoing exploration of materiality.

The tailored suit and pants — a mainstay of an office job — were touchstones, starkly contrasting the moments of whimsy.

Even here, styles were treated with Anderson’s signature off-kilter eye and in loose, generous proportions.

Elongated belts were in double vision, while patent Oxford shoes would have been ready for Wall Street, were it not for the fairytale-like surreally long toe that could have been worn by Rumpelstiltskin. Was Anderson trying to evoke a daydream of a bored city worker? This fusion of the mundane and the fantastical is an Anderson trademark. Spring was another example of his ability to use clothing as a medium to explore broader cultural themes, and to draw the it-crowd including actor Jeff Goldblum and movie director Pedro Almodovar.

Asian cross-over styles and sumptuous turban-like headwear mixed with the buttons and epaulet detailing of military garb created a distinctively avant-garde atmosphere for fashion-forward designer Kiko Kostadinov’s latest collection. The nuanced incorporation of pastels, often gently color-blocked into the outfits, lent the collection a vibrant yet subtle harmony, reflecting Kostadinov’s knack for blending unlikely elements.

The uncommon pastel hues made this collection sing. Kostadinov often uses vibrant tones to create eye-catching ensembles.

Other styles featured high, round collars that seemed to evoke Star Trek, adding a futuristic twist. Kostadinov has a penchant for integrating elements of science fiction and fantasy into his designs, as seen in past collections inspired by cinematic and bookish themes.

Indeed, one look — a striking industrial-style jacket and pants — sported surreal motifs of alien lifeforms or underwater creatures. This playful yet eerie detailing continued, resembling microscopic bacteria adorning a 70s-style pastel-striped shirt and pants.

Loose, limp silhouettes, utilitarian detailing, and layered looks set the mood from the outset at White Mountaineering’s latest menswear show. Designed by Yosuke Aizawa, a Tokyo-based creator who thrives on outdoor adventures and draws inspiration from the hinterlands of Nagano prefecture, this brand epitomizes the fusion of urban and outdoor wear, balancing technical function with the runway.

The collection began, fittingly, in white. Monochromatic musings gave way to stripes, checks, and camouflage, with geometric knit patterns and even an assorted ’90s tie-dye total look.

Factory overall onesies in beige gave this collection a young, funky vibe, while silky foulards and neat collars added a nip of chic.

Aizawa, who divides his time between Tokyo and the wilderness of Nagano, channels his passion for the outdoors into his shows. His designs reflect his lifestyle, offering garments that are equally at home in the city or the countryside.